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復(fù)古風(fēng)潮的寶庫(kù)|假如非要給古董衣的美設(shè)定期限,我希望是一萬年...

 掌染草2012 2016-05-02


左衽中國(guó)|文字/編輯:Y.


復(fù)古元素作為流行元素之一,在女裝設(shè)計(jì)中具有不可替代的位置,它們既是相對(duì)的,又是彼此之間相互轉(zhuǎn)化的。懷舊為復(fù)古設(shè)計(jì)提供了具象的主題和情緒的參照物,設(shè)計(jì)師又從時(shí)空的疏離感中獲得了廣闊的自由度,讓古典詩(shī)意重生,成為流行。


Late 16th century women's dress ensemble, Spanish, made of silk and linen, The Metropolitan Museum of Art (detail)


Stunning and sumptuous embroidery detail of Court suit Frockcoat, late 18th–early 19th century, French



W. Larkin, Lady Dorothy Cary, detail 1615



Court dress, ca 1900 Russia



Court dress, ca 1900 Russia



Complete suit from the 17th century. It's a map! untraceable, no futher info


Detail rear view,court coat, France or Spain, 1790s with later alterations. 



Detail, coat and waistcoat, 1790s. Brown patterned silk, lavishly embroidered with floral motifs in polychrome silk



Detail 3-piece court suit, 1770-1785, made in France and imported to England. 


刺繡作為一種帶有時(shí)代烙印的裝飾手段,歷來深受各國(guó)文化與科技的影響,它之所以能始終長(zhǎng)久的占據(jù)著重要的地位,不僅是因?yàn)樽陨淼奈幕滋N(yùn),更重要的,還要數(shù)它持續(xù)更新的技術(shù)手段,并不斷結(jié)合流行為其塑造的嶄新形象。


Court suit detail of Frockcoat, Waistcoat and breeches, late 18th–early 19th century, French, silk, metallic thread, paste (c) Metropolitan Museum of Art



Rear view of Frockcoat, part of a Court suit, late 18th–early 19th century, French, silk, metallic thread, paste (c) Metropolitan Museum of Art



French Court Suit, 1750–75 Medium- silk, metal thread Divine



Court Suit Date- 1750–75 Culture- French Medium- silk, metal thread



Indian Wedding Gown



Beautiful detail of red silk velvet gown with the exquisite silver thread embroidery



Broderie marocaine



Frockcoat Pocket Embroidery detail of Suit, 1774-93, French, silk


England, Great Britain. 1730-1739 Artist/Maker: Unknown. Silk satin, silver thread, spangles, silk thread


復(fù)古風(fēng)潮席卷之時(shí),如將華麗而又含蓄的柔美刺繡應(yīng)用在服裝設(shè)計(jì)中,會(huì)帶給人們耳目一新的感覺。雖然可能大都是已被人們遺忘到成為細(xì)枝末節(jié)的時(shí)代印記,在工匠的巧手與設(shè)計(jì)師的妙思下又能重?zé)ㄉ鷻C(jī)。通過設(shè)計(jì)的加工再造,這些古典元素的細(xì)節(jié)便可以做出不可思議的流行風(fēng)貌。


18th century Italian chasuble Met Museum ref no 1984.462.1



Silk dress fabric by Madame Dellac, American, c.1878



Corporal box Place of origin- Italy Date- ca. 1560-1570 Materials and Techniques- Embroidered silk and linen, with bobbin lace insertion Museum number-5958-1859



First Consul jacket owned by Napoleon Bonaparte, 1800 From the Chateau de Malmaison Costume Collection



First Consul jacket owned by Napoleon Bonaparte, 1800 From the Chateau de Malmaison Costume Collection


Peter II red wool suit --The Moscow Kremlin Museums



Embroidery detail from the court dress belonging to the Chateau de Malmaison collection



Embroidery detail from the court dress belonging to the Chateau de Malmaison collection



Embroidery detail from the court dress belonging to the Chateau de Malmaison collection



Detail Alexander McQueen dress for Givenchy, Lesage embroidery of blossom and foliage



Detail from Gentleman's Ensemble , France, 1774-92


不同時(shí)期遺存的古董衣及其背后的故事,代代相傳的珍貴工藝等等這些數(shù)不清的歷史瑰寶啟發(fā)了無數(shù)設(shè)計(jì)師的靈感,并令他們?yōu)橹钌钪?,有效運(yùn)用復(fù)古元素,將其打破、重組、創(chuàng)新,創(chuàng)作出個(gè)人風(fēng)格和流行統(tǒng)一的獨(dú)特作品是設(shè)計(jì)師們的共同追求,但假如非要給古董衣的美設(shè)定期限,我希望是一萬年...



Detail, Man's Court Suit, French, 1785-1792.



Detail of a suit that belonged to Axel von Fersen, made in Paris around the 1785.



Detail of embroidery to neckline (top) and pocket, cuff and front of a late 18th Century waistcoat of silk and linen with polychrome silk stitching and covered wire buttons



Early 18th century stomacher


Costume worn by Napoleon to his coronation as king of Italy, 1805 From the Stibbert Museum



Detail buttons, 3-piece court suit, 1770-1785, made in France and imported to England



Gold embroidery on red wool collar, hand-embroidered ca. 1800



17C cloak with embroidery



Robe, mid 19th Century, TurkishMet Museum



Embroidery cuff and covered button detail, Frockcoat, 18th century



17th century embroidery at the Royal Armoury in Sweden - detail of chain border is amazing



French waist coat 1775



Elaborate gold embroidery on high-ranking French officer's uniform



Gold embroidered cutwork jacket



18th century Culture- European Medium- silk, metal thread


Detail, robe à la francaise, 1760s. Grey-blue silk brocade woven with a pattern of polychrome floral sprays, self-fabric trimming.



Satin Gauntlet embroidered with silk and metallic thread, purl and spangles, trimmed with silk ribbon and silver-gilt bobbin lace… English c. 1600-1625



Tail coat Date- third quarter 18th century Culture- French Medium- silk



Coat Date- 1775 Culture- French Medium- silk



Coat Date- third quarter 18th century Culture- British Medium- silk



Button detail- Frockcoat, third quarter 18th century, French



Coat, Britain, 1770-1779 (made), Wool and silk, handwoven, silver, gold



Embroidery detail of an early 18th Century French Metallic Gold Stomacher | Trouvais



Linen purse with silk embroidery depicting lovers, French (Paris), c. 1340.



Purse, date- last quarter 16th century Culture- British Medium- silk, gold, silver, linen



1900,Court robe,Russian,silk, metallic threads and paillettes ,at The Metropolitan Museum of Art



French court dress, 1750



Gentleman's Ensemble - detail of frockcoat buttons and waistcoat embroidery Date- ca. 1765 French Medium- silk, metal



Doublet - detail of embroidery. ca 1580, European, Silk, metallic thread brass



Detail of skirts of A gentleman's embroidered green velvet court coat, French, circa 1790, heavily embellished with floss silk flowerheads and foliage



Evening coat, 1920s–30s, Japanese. Medium- silk, metallic thread | The Metropoitan Museum of Art



Wedding ensemble


  

  

  

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